HK SOUP ORIGINS: DRIED SCALLOPS
Saunter down many of the roads in Sai Wan or Sheung Wan, and you will see many shop selling dried seafood and Chinese herbs. Many Hong Kongers and more seasoned expats will recognize these ingredients as key to Cantonese soups, one of the delicious staples in Hong Kong diets. In this series, our writers at HK-Cityguide profile the origins of these soup ingredients, from China and further afield.
With the rest of the town still sleeping, a figure in a marine blue raincoat strides purposefully through layers of thick fog and towards the shore of Toyoura-Cho, Hokkaido. The “sea of clouds” – called unkai in Japanese – surrounding him is caused by the drastic difference between the temperature of the summit and the foot of the surrounding mountains. It is four in the morning, and the sun is still in slumber like almost everyone else, but not the fishermen of the town.
Greeted by the sound of waves and seagulls, the dawn finally arrives. The light chases away layers of fog and reveals the astonishing scenery of Uchiura Bay, also known as the Funka Bay (Fire Spitting Bay in Japanese). Boats cut through the parting mist and cruise to the middle of the bay in search of Umi no Sachi (luck of the sea in Japanese).
The Blessing from the Sea
Umi no Sachi generally refers to seafood that fishermen gain naturally from the ocean instead of those that are cultivated. Microorganisms can barely survive in the chilly seawater of the Uchiura Bay, while there is also an abundant amount of plankton to feed on. Hence the bay produces the freshest and juiciest sweet shrimp, salmon, horsehair crab, and sea scallops of Japan which we often see in cooking videos.
June to July and October to November are the two windows in a year. The local folks are able to earn enough to support their families for the rest of the year. These restrictions ensure the ocean has its time to recover, preserving the biodiversity of the bay and a livelihood for generations to come.
After hours of scouring 30 feet below, the fishermen return with their nets full of scallops. Nothing is wasted. For the broken scallops, fishing crews start fires and roast them as snacks with a cup of sake after work. However, before this, they need to send the intact ones to the processing factory.
Seafood from Hokkaido is of course famous for sashimi. While it is fresh and raw, tap it with soy sauce. Delicacy! Nevertheless, before sushi and sashimi became popular throughout the world, the Japanese also discovered another way to enjoy this blessing in a shell.
Amber of the Sea
Ever since the Qing Dynasty (1644-1912), Japan had been sending dried scallops along with other dried seafood such as dried shrimp as designated tribute to the Qing emperors. Even today, a dried scallop can be sold at two to threefold the price compared with a fresh one. Meticulous steps are needed to turn the snowy meat of scallops into the amber-like dried scallops that we put in many of our dishes and soups.
For starters, the shells need to be scrubbed clean and then slightly boiled. By cooking the scallops by running hot water, it detaches the adductor muscle and organs from the shell. Then the intestine is separated from the muscle of scallops carefully, since if the meat is damaged the price will immediately drop by 30 percent. The meat will be seasoned with salty water and stay in the drying machine for several hours.
After going through all these processes, the scallops can finally have a long sunbathe for 20 days. This process slots into the gap between the next fishing season. Marching into August from July, there will be less rain and more sunlight.
Just like amber, the nutritional value skyrockets by letting it age. Raw and fresh scallops are well-known for their high-protein and low-fat ratio as well as being low in calories. Yet, a dried scallop possesses higher protein than the raw ones and is rich in minerals such as calcium, iron, and zinc.
Eating it nourishes the kidneys and restores energy to the body. It is known to boost the immune system and beautify the skin. For those who are seeking a lighter dish, shredding them and steaming them with eggs will be a viable option. Those little round amber gems are truly worth the wait.
